A Shaded View On Fashion: The Festival
At the same time that Lisbon witnessed its fashion week, Paris was breathing in the last moments of its own semaine de la mode but before it was over, something just as fashionable was happening at the Centre Pompidou: the festival – A Shaded View On Fashion Film.
It’s the only film festival dedicated to this kind of genre where we can have a look at the most enthusiastic exhibition about a language that is developing a promiscuous curiosity in such a massive audience – the fashion film.
Style, beauty and fashion are the main themes to which directors, filmmakers, multimedia artists and creatives inspire themselves to expose, in movement, their vision about something that is more and more talked about and explored.
The festival has existed since 2008 and through it several artists have had the possibility to expose their artistic approaches using it as a promotional platform which helps them to develop and grow inside the fashion world and industry.
A Shaded View On Fashion Film (better known as ASVOFF) won a strong impact inside the artistic community early after the first edition and was acclaimed by critics (which assisted to the quality of the viewed material) as well as by newcomers who use the festival as a way to show to these critics and to the interested public what they believe in and create about it this way of seeing and feeling about fashion and their possibilities as a way of artistic expression and communication.
Every year, the event starts in Paris (straight after the busiest fashion week in the international calender) easily becoming the spine of the business and projection of fashion around the world and from there, its conquering several other audiences with projections in different spaces like museums and events in several other creative cities like New York, London, Tokyo (the city that will receive the event between the 19th and the 22nd of this October at the Art Nest Hotel), Bilbao, Moscow and Mexico City. Barcelona was the chosen city to hold the festival at the end of the year.
One of the most important moments of the festival was in 2008 when Mark Eley and Eley Kishimoto got in contact with Diane Pernet, the founder and director of the ASVOFF (see attached article) for her to direct a video for the launch of the label’s new men’s collection and while doing it she was also invited to record the whole process for a possible editing of a short film to be presented in the future. Under the title “You Wear It Well”, the premiere of the video and the documentary happened in Los Angeles but only three years later this “intimate happening and getter around” got bigger and bigger and became not just a fashion event but the festival that we know today. In 2008, films, documentaries, conferences, performances and installations were held during the same event, making it a must see in the fashion calender. The small and private event had become the festival that we know today.
Diane Pernet, the fashion viewer
We couldn’t speak about the festival A Shaded View On Fashion Film without speaking about this name, Diane Pernet. A recognized and respected name in the fashion family, Pernet was born in Washington D.C., in the United States of America but soon she traded the land of Uncle Sam, stripes and stars and cowboys for the enchantments of the french capital for over 20 years. Known fashion curator, journalist and blogger, she was a fashion designer in the 80′s and before that she worked for television and for the cinematic industry. She was also fashion editor for Joyce Magazine for 5 years as well as for Elle.com and VogueParis.com and several other publications.
Nowadays she works and dedicates her time exclusively to her blog and to the festival with the same name (the blog existed before the festival and was baptized with the name because it’s almost like an extension of it, in a larger scale). She still works as an art, fashion and cinema curator.
With the possibility to cross herself with so many creative minds, Pernet started to work with several other names from different artistic backgrounds and areas and, because of their influence, her blog was considered one of the three most important ones in the world (in the department that it is dedicated to), by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. What started to be a way to inform the interested ones through her mobile phone quickly became a huge, global sucess.
Were it all started: The Blog
In her blog, Pernet represents a mixture of new talents from the fashion world between the monsters that capitalize all the attention, the names that are already established and the respected. All this can be attributed to when she was starting by herself in New York as a fashion designer when nothing was easily granted, and with this always in her mind she decided to help the new artists so that they can have the chance that wasn’t available for her to show their work.
Because of this, the blog exists so that the ones that the world doesn’t know about can be featured side by side with the names that the world worships. For this to happen, the new talents need impressive amounts of money that they simply don’t have because to present it some publicity (and we are being kind here) is necessary. This is why Pernet’s help is crucial because her blog, by featuring their work, is already halfway done to a bigger exposure, by reaching to an audience that, by themselves, they never would reach.
In the blog we can find pictures, drawings, illustrations, short films, texts and interviews, some by Diane Pernet herself and always with her personal point of view, making it possible that her opinion can be read and absorbed above all and reachable to all, from the most avid readers to the most influential names in the fashion nucleus that get inspiration through Pernet’s words. The “shaded viewers” as she calls them.
This year’s program presents, one more time, a group of talented newartists amoung others with a stronger signature in the fashion world, cinema or art. Between those names we can find Socrates Mitsios & Actually Huizenga, Alex Noble, Charlie Le Mindu, Kathryn Ferguson and Simon Preen. But there’s also a portuguese one: Sérgio Cruz.
Cruz is a very versatile artist that moves into sound, image and video. After graduating at Lisbon’s Fine Arts University, he packed his bags to London in order to get a master’s degree. Well, he finished with two: one in Fine Arts at Central St.Martins and the second one “Dancing for the Screen” at the London Contemporary Dance School. After all the academical path, Cruz starts a very individual aproach to the experimental video, inspiring himself in cinema, performance and off course, fine arts. With a particular fascination towards sound, his work develops and uses the possibilities created by it so that he can focus on the movement of each frame and image. For this, the editing skills are extremly important making his work a fusion between documentary films and a more experimental way to create art on screen.
After winning several awards, Sérgio’s work circulates in other cinema festivals and art galleries that include Tate Modern in London and his first solo exhibition in Berlin called “Art Claims Impulse”.
He signs the video attached to this piece.
Director, Producer Editor & Sound Design by Sérgio Cruz // Cast by Alex Whipham // Cinematographer, Matilde Travassos // Stills, Jonathon Griggs and Matilde Travassos // Lighting by Jonathon Griggs //Music by Roberto Crippa // Make up by Tina Pachta // Styling by Valentina Tiurbini
Screenings // Fashion film festival ASVOFF 2011 at the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France.
Article by Tiago F. Martins